Conclusion regarding Separation Anxiety

When the problem has been targeted, improvement can be detected within two or three weeks. Complete treatment takes 8 to 12 weeks, depending on the master's tenacity and know-how. If the environment or the schedule changes, the problem can re-occur. At that moment, resume the procedure and the problems will go away faster.

Fear: If the dog is afraid of something, it means that he had a bad experience, or a lack of socialization. It is very important that the stimulus that causes the fear be identified; for example, noise, the presence of adults, children or other stimuli. There are, in fact, an endless number of possible types of fear, but the most widely used treatment to improve upon negative reactions induced by fear is counter conditioning combined with desensitization.

A dog known as fearful displays particular body language, such as ears flattened or backwards, tail low, between the legs, with head and body swung low. Vocalisation can be heard, such as barking, whining, and even growling sounds. Many clinical signs can be observed, such as avoidance, aggressiveness, trembling, sporadic destruction, excessive salivation, body-related inhibitions, emotional urination, and loss of hair.

Phobias: A phobia is disproportionate fear. Phobic fear completely handicaps the dog emotionally. Dogs suffer and hurt themselves in an attempt to escape from "somewhere". For example, the dog is in a cage, and he hears a noise. This noise triggers a panic; the dog will scratch and claw at the bars of the cage, hurting himself in the process. Phobias are physiological reactions that are difficult to completely eliminate. However, they can be redirected toward acceptable behavior patterns.

In order to improve the fear or phobia, treatment is not relative to the master's physical force. If the master forces the dog, he will be more fearful the next time. For example, a master can force the dog to encounter lots of people in different places, even if the dog trembles or tries to run away. This is not desensitization. Desensitization is a gradual process that changes the negative perception in a stimulus into a positive one. It is acquired by varying the stimulation, the intensity, the distance, and the milieu. The spray should not be used as correction. The idea is to show the dog that there is nothing to fear. If the stimulus has been well identified, and the situation can be harnessed, you can gradually present the stimulus in a controlled environment. In many cases, an antidepressant can be combined with the desensitization approach for better results. (by rendering the dog receptive to treatment) Consult your ethologist or behaviorist veterinarian.

The first step is to establish a growing order of stimuli which provoke an emotional reaction of acute fear.

  1. Evaluate all characteristics of the stimulus or the situation. For example: distance, noise, speed, characteristics related to people, such as age, sex, or size. Observe the behavior of the animal, as the person tries to touch him, or when he goes toward someone. Also, be alert to environmental factors such as inside, outside, familiar, or non-familiar.
  2. Establish a list of priorities of characteristics, starting with the most important, to the least important.
  3. Determine what the animal can tolerate. In other words, a situation that does not provoke a negative response is the starting point.
  4. Use your list of priorities, and simulate situations where they can be found. This means exposing your dog to his fear, but a controlled version of it This way, you can target the right time to reward the dog. Rewards can take on many forms (food, toys, touching, laughter, or a game session). The emergence of fear should be combined with the onset of a pleasant element. Repeat this situation many times. We suggest 10 repetitions within a session. Do not change the intensity or the area before the dog has succeeded.
  5. Gradually increase the intensity of each stimulus. Begin as soon as the dog displays fear. segment the exercise into situations made up of varying degrees of intensity, slowly getting closer and closer to that which resembles the authentic situation. Progression must occur without the dog showing any fear whatsoever; otherwise, take one step back in stimuli intensity, and practice a little longer at a lower level of intensity.
Remote Controlled Dog Trainer Using Spray Commander: Preliminary Remarks Programming the Remote Control Dog Training The dog's place within the family Socialization Causes for Dog Disobedience Rules and Notions of Behavior Indicators for Good and Bad Behavior Two Categories for Positive Reinforcement (Primary, Secondary) The "SOUND" Option on Spray Commander When to stop using the sound How to Reward a Dog When to use the Citronella Spray The Warning Feature on Spray Commander How to Use Correction Wisely Play During and After Training Session Never Let the Dog Win Stress and Your Dog The Ten Basic Commands Sequence Chart 1: Primary Training Phase Sequence Chart 2: Obedience Training How to Begin Obedience Training Obedience Training "SIT' when the dog is standing "DOWN" when the dog is seated "SIT" when the dog is lying down "STAND" 1 when the dog is seated "STAND" 2 when the dog is lying down "DOWN" when the dog is standing Consolidation Exercises Practice the commands from a distance Positive Association "STAY" Command The "STAY" command from a distance "HEEL" Command How to obtain desired results with a leash When the dog constantly tugs at the leash The Gentle Leader Collar for Dogs "DON’T TOUCH" Command Biting Dog Games "STOP" Command Spray Commander: A Short-Term Training Tool Re-Educating Your Dog Dealing with Unacceptable Behavior How to Evaluate a Problem Counter-conditioning and systematic desensitization 2. Systematic desensitization 3. Immersion Problems with Soiling Possible causes for soiling Fears and phobias Urinating by submission or excitement How to solve the problem The importance of a cage in education for soiling Should you catch your dog in the act Underlying reasons most frequent in dealing with soiling problems: The pack leader controls the food Examples of dominant behavior How lo introduce your dog to strangers Dog Destruction Possible causes for destruction Games and investigating the environment The dog that demands attention How to prevent destruction Before leaving the house Make sure that the dog gets enough exercise How to Prevent Chasing or Running Away Typical causes for running away or chasing Game investigation social contact Procedure to counter chasing The dog that Jumps and Grabs at People Picking up or Stealing Objects How to Stop Your Dog from Stealing Coprophagia - The dog that eats his stools The Agitated, Excitable Dog The Dog Cries to Obtain Attention or Food Separation anxiety Treating Separation Anxiety Separation Anxiety Steps 4-5 Separation Anxiety Steps 6-8 Conclusion regarding Separation Anxiety Fear of men The difference between a fearful dog and a dominant aggressive dog Fear of certain people or other dogs How the Dog reacts to Change Automobile Rides Dog Tricks and Games The search for a person or an object : "Bring to", "Bring the in" "SNIFF / FETCH" Game "JUMP" Game "ROLL OVER" Trick "GIVE YOUR PAW" "THERE'S A BISCUIT ON YOUR NOSE!" How to establish limits with Spray Barrier How to prevent the dog from leaving his territory and running away Excessive barking How are undesirable behaviors reinforced? Feline Problems Feline vocalisation Inappropriate Elimination Behavior Inappropriate Spraying in Cats Aggression among Cats How to select a good educator if you need help Dog Behavior Glossary